Exotic Rescue Forum
Would you like to react to this message? Create an account in a few clicks or log in to continue.
Exotic Rescue Forum

Run By Reptile Rescuers - For Reptile Lovers!
 
HomeHome  Portal*  SearchSearch  Latest imagesLatest images  RegisterRegister  Log in  Reptile Rescue DenReptile Rescue Den  

 

 Garter & Ribbon Snakes

Go down 
AuthorMessage
Snakes Incorporated
Moderator
Moderator
Snakes Incorporated


Number of posts : 572
Location : Cape Town / South Africa
Registration date : 2007-12-28

Garter & Ribbon Snakes Empty
PostSubject: Garter & Ribbon Snakes   Garter & Ribbon Snakes EmptyTue Dec 15, 2009 2:05 am

Garter & Ribbon Snakes
(Thamnophis spp.)
Contributed by:Stuart Dodworth of www.reptiletrust.com

Distribution
These snakes can be found in areas all around the United States of America, from Mexico to as far north as Canada.

Size
Hatchlings begin around 15 - 30cm (6 to 12 inches) in length reaching around 45cm (1.5 feet) within the first 12 months of growth with an eventual size of around 75 - 135cm (2.5 to 4.5 feet) in length. This is usually within 5 years. Very few species reach over 150cm (5 feet).

Diet
Their main diet consists of earth worms, moluscs and fish for hatchlings. As the snake grows, so will the frequency and amount of food given as well as an increase in prey size. From pink mice to small lizards, crickets, strips of raw beef, garter grub and snake steak. It is very important that these particular snakes are given a varied diet in order to prevent nutritional disorders.


Requirements
Heat Source:This can be either reflector spot lights in green, red or blue, ceramics or tubular heaters. Heat mats are also a useful alternative.

UV Light Source:Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UVB. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. However, care should be taken if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have a detrimental effect on the snakes eyes. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.

Housing:This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can live quite happily in a vivarium measuring 60 cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (24 inches long by 18 inches deep and 18 inches high).

Thermostat:An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.

Wire Mesh Guards:These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.

Thermometers:-One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.

Hides:These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.

Water
These animals require a water container which will allow them to bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink.

Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) should be created with a basking area of one third of the vivarium reaching temperatures of 27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 26°C (78°F) although this is not recommended if the snake is suffering any respiratory infections.

Longevity
These animals have been known to reach ages of around 10 - 15 years although snakes living up to 20 years are not uncommon.

Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper, wood chippings, cork chippings, corn cob or even astro turf. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.

Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given from 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. Brumation is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.

Salmonella
Many reptiles carry the naturally forming bacteria Salmonella. It must be stated that salmonella bacteria can only be contracted by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal.
Back to top Go down
 
Garter & Ribbon Snakes
Back to top 
Page 1 of 1
 Similar topics
-
» Show us your BIG Snakes.
» Sexing Snakes
» Snakes on a Plane!
» Corn Snakes (1)
» Snakes used for exhibition purposes

Permissions in this forum:You cannot reply to topics in this forum
Exotic Rescue Forum :: General Help & Chat :: Caresheets :: Snakes-
Jump to: