Leopard Geckos (1)

Leopard Geckos


(Taxonomy)

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Reptilia
Order: Squamata
Family: Eublepharidae
Genus: Eublepharis
Species: Macularius


What are leopard geckos?

Geckos are diverse and adaptive lizards. The family Gekkonidae is comprised of many different species that occupy a wide range of habitats. Geckos can be found almost anywhere; from harsh dry deserts, to lush moist forests. Their ability to adapt to their surroundings has made the gecko a flourishing species.

Each specie carries different traits that distinguishes it from the others. The leopard gecko is no exception. The leopard gecko belongs to the subfamily Eublepharinae. They are the eyelid geckos. They are the only group of geckos with functioning eyelids that can close. All other geckos possess eyelids that are fused open and are unable to blink. The eyelid geckos are the most primitive reptiles within the gecko family.

Gecko behaviors

Geckos are extremely fun to watch due to their behavioral characteristics. They are curious by nature and can become excited by a simple cricket crossing their path. With stealth and determined moves, a gecko will stalk its prey, with a tail twitch, lunge forward, and grab hold. The tail twitch is rather amusing to watch. It serves various functions and each should be noted accordingly.

As stated above, the gecko could twitch its tail by becoming overly excited. Both males and females will rattle their tails, so differentiating between the two is crucial.

It can also be used to see what other males are in the enclosure. Leopard geckos will rattle their tail as a signal that he is a male or to show a sign that he does not want to be bothered. If another gecko in the enclosure also rattles their tail, it signals that there is another male in their territory. Some sort of altercation will often follow this.

Males will also rattle their tails to see what females are present and to inform them that he is a male. This signaling is often done when a male is introduced to a female’s enclosure or vice versa.

Getting use to your leopard geckos behaviors will help you to better understand your gecko.

Housing

Leopard geckos are a unique and undemanding pet. A single gecko can be housed in a ten-gallon aquarium though a longer enclosure is always suggested.

Since leopard geckos are not arboreal, they do not require enclosures that are "high". A longer, shallower enclosure would suit them best.


Many people own and house multiple geckos. This can be done individually or accumulatively. Female Leos can be housed in groups so long as the space is permitted. A 20-gallon aquarium would be sufficient for three females. Males must be housed separately. They will fight over territory and some cases of fighting have lead to death of one or both of the Leos.

Substrate

It is a common occurrence that when searching the internet for information on leopard geckos, this issue is always controversial. There is still a huge amount of leopard gecko owners that suggest the use of sand and other granular substrates as a "safe" substrate material. Unfortunately, this is not the case.

Granular substrates have been known to cause impactions in leopard geckos. There are two types of impaction that could occur. The first is called an Acute Impaction. An acute impaction is when the Leo swallows a large amount of substrate and it blocks the vital organs used to process food. (Stomach, intestinal tract, etc.) The results of this type of impaction will lead to lethargy, lack of appetite, lack of bowel movements, sand in the stool, etc.

The other type of impaction, and often the most deadly form, is the chronic impaction. A chronic impaction is the slow accumulation of sand that binds to the lining of the intestinal tract. Over time, and often years, it will create a blockage. This blockage will also have the same detrimental effects as an acute impaction. The biggest problem with this type of impaction is that when it is discovered, it is most often too late to cure.

To prevent the possibility of this happening to your leopard gecko, avoid all granular substrates. None of them is as digestible as they claim and each poses the CHANCE that your gecko could become a victim of an impaction.

Substrates that are safe would include unprinted newspaper, paper towels, and repti carpet with all the frayed edges melted, linoleum, cloth, etc.

Heating (daytime)

The most common and often the most preferred method of heating an enclosure for leopard geckos is with the use of an under tank heater (UTH).

Uth,s adhere to the bottom of the glass aquariums and should be placed on one end of the enclosure. The spot in the enclosure that has the uth under it will be considerably warmer than the rest of the enclosure. There should be a hide spot/spots placed over this location. This is where the geckos can receive the warmth required to aid in thermoregulation and digestion. The use of a rheostat will allow you to change the amount of heat that is emitted by the uth.

Other methods of heating an enclosure are ceramic heat emitters, basking lights, etc. Never should you use a "heat rock" with ANY reptile. There have been a number of reported cases where heat rocks have malfunctioned and caused thermal burns.

The ideal temperature range to house a leopard gecko at would be 85-95 degrees in the "basking spot". (That would be where the uth is located.)

The cooler end of the enclosure should not fall below 70 degrees but should also not exceed 77 degrees. There should be a hide spot located on this end of the enclosure as well.

The purpose of having this type of setup is to allow the gecko to thermo regulate its body temperature. Unlike humans, geckos are cold blooded. They depend upon external heat sources and cool spots to adjust their bodies core temperature. If a proper heat gradient is not supplied, the gecko could become too cool and /or hot and become ill or die.

Heating (night time)

In the wild, evening temperatures differ from those during the day. This has to be duplicated in captivity as well.

The ideal evening temperatures would be between 68-74 degrees. That is generally the average household temperature. In most cases, extra heating is not required unless the constant use of air conditioners is a factor. Under tank heat emitters are never turned off unless your household temperature exceeds 80 degrees. This allows the geckos a place to warm themselves in the evening.

If you are using a ceramic heat emitter for your enclosure, it should be left on. This will allow the gecko to have an end of the enclosure that is warmer than the other.

Temperature monitoring

It is crucial that you monitor your Leos enclosure. This can be done with the use of thermometers. There are many different types to choose from and one for every budget. The use of two thermometers is recommended so that each end of the enclosure can be monitored.

Humidity

Leopard geckos come from dry arid regions of the world. Their captive enclosures need to be a replica of this type of environment. An excessive amount of moisture can lead to health and behavioral problems. Their habitat should be maintained below 10% humidity. This can be monitored with the use of humidity gauges. They are often sold at most pet stores.

When a leopard gecko retreats to its hide during the daylight hours, they are often in chambers or holes that have a higher humidity level than the ambient air outside of the hide spot. To simulate this type of environment, you will need to create a moist hide.

Moist hide

A moist hide is designed to aid with shedding and to double as a laying box for gravid females. To create a moist hide, cut a hole in the side of a margarine tub. The hole should be closest to the top of the container but should have at least 1 inch of plastic remaining on the bottom.

Place some sphagnum moss or a similar medium in the container and wet slightly. The substrate should not be so wet that water is evident. It also must not be dry. The best way to get a good consistency is too hold the medium in your hand and add water. Now squeeze out the excess moisture. This will leave a safe medium for you to use.

Moist hides are often used as an aid for the gecko to help loosen skin that is shedding.

Leopard Geckos (2)


Shedding

A gecko that is shedding is very noticeable. Their natural colors will dull dramatically and they may lose their appetite. They will often spend a majority of their time in their moist hides preparing for the shed.

Once the shed has begun to separate itself, the gecko will bite hold of the loose skin and tear it away from the newly developed skin underneath. They will also begin to eat the newly shed skin as it is removed. This is a common occurrence and is very healthy for the gecko because the shed skin is full of nutrients.

The moist hide plays a vital role in successful sheds. Skin that has not been removed can lead to infections and poor circulation resulting in paralysis of limbs that have been cut off from the bloodline. The added moisture from the moist hide moistens the skin. This will help to get the shed off problem areas like the toes.

A freshly shed gecko will have vibrant colorings and will resume normal activities.

Lighting

Leopard geckos are nocturnal. This means that they prefer the evening hours and darkness to the daytime. This also means that they do not require expensive UV lighting like iguanas and other diurnal reptiles.

Like all living creatures, they do require what is called a photoperiod. This can be established by providing 12 hours of light as well as 12 hours of darkness. A simple household bulb can be used for this purpose. The light cycle that you provide will help the gecko to determine night and day.

Viewing

Viewing your gecko can be tricky as they are most as active during dusk and the evening hours. Many people have turned to using red, blue, and black lights during the night to help moderate evening temps as well as to add minimal lighting that allows for superior viewing.

The light emitted from these bulbs is so minimal that it does not disrupt the reptile while still allowing you to watch them in their most active state.

Black lights

The black lights are not the same bulbs that are used to view black light responsive images. They are simply a black bulb designed for viewing and heating reptiles. Please do not confuse the two. Some documents show that prolonged exposure to "black lights" (image responsive lighting) can have a negative effect on the eyes. We would not want this same problem to occur with our reptiles.

Water

Water should be left in a shallow dish and changed daily.

Feeding

Geckos are insectivores and require a diet consisting of healthy insects. The most common insects available and used are crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and super worms. Each of these insects make up an entire diet with crickets or mealworms being the staple of the diet.

Wax worms are high in fat and are not fed on a regular basis. My geckos receive wax worms on 2-week intervals. I add 3 wax worms to their diet every other feeding, every 2 weeks. Then I will go 2 weeks without offering any wax worms.

My geckos are maintained at 55-65 grams by using this method.

Leopard geckos are nocturnal and in the wild begin to stalk prey once the sun has gone down. Their feedings should be done in the evening. This is a wonderful time for you to observe your Leo.

Gut loading

This process requires you to feed your insects healthy foods. By supplying your feeder insects with fresh fruits and vegetables, they will be adding nutrients to their contents. This will aid your gecko with their nutrient consumption because they will be eating insects that are healthy and nutritious.

Never feed insects directly from the pet store. They should be gut loaded first. Most pet stores do not take the time to feed their feeders because they are never in the store long enough for them to do so.

Calcium

A shallow dish of pure calcium powder should be left in the enclosure at all times. Leopard geckos require high calcium content and will utilize the dish as needed.

Vitamins

Supplementing your leopard gecko will help to insure that they are receiving all of their nutrients. Herptivite is a good supplement to use. Sprinkle some in a bag and add the insects that you plan on feeding. Lightly shake the bag to coat the insects and then add them to the enclosure. As the geckos eat the insects, they will also be eating the vitamins that are covering the insects.

My Leos are supplemented every other week for two feedings.

Stress

Leopard Geckos, like all reptiles, can become stressed. This can happen from being moved, being placed in "high traffic" areas of the home,inadequate temperatures,etc. Stress can lead to not eating. Its very common with reptiles.

When a new Leo is brought into the home, it should be given solitude and a chance to "settle" in before handling occurs. A varied diet of insects should be offered, water changed daily, and the leo left to adapt to its new surroundings. This will help reduce stress and improve the overall transition.

Introduction to breeding

Leopard geckos are an abundant species within the pet trade industry. This is mainly due to the ease involved with breeding these spectacular reptiles.

The novice keeper that tries their hand at breeding may find himself or herself shocked at the outcome. I have outlined some information on breeding that will help those interested get started on the right foot.

The first thing that anyone should do before they begin any type of breeding project is to be prepared for the outcome. Any successful breeding project is going to require some extra time and money. This is mainly for housing, feeding, and general care of the new offspring.

In order to successfully breed leopard geckos, you will need a small breeding colony consisting of one male and at least four females. (Breeding will occur with smaller colonies but will be VERY stressful on the females)

Sexing leopard geckos

Leopard geckos cannot be positively sexed until they are 6 months to 1 year old. Males have larger heads than females and more pronounced pores. The pores can be located above the vent behind the rear legs on the underside of the leopard gecko.

Males also have "bulges" that protrude below the vent. This is where the hemipene can be found.

Females also have femoral pores in the same location. They are much less pronounced than the males and far less visible.

Trying to sex a gecko while its young can be misinterpreting so I suggest that you wait until they are older.

In most cases, simply placing the male in the females enclosure will result in them copulating. In some cases, you will need to induce a breeding response by supplying a cooling period.

Breeding weight

Breeding geckos is normally done by weight and not age. I personally will not breed a gecko that is not at least 55 grams. This goes for both my males and females. To monitor their weights, I purchased an Acculab GSI-200. It is accurate up to .1 grams. It also allows for tarring which is convenient when you are using a container to place the gecko in while they are being weighed. You first place the container on the scale, and then hit "tare". This will zero out the scale so that the only weight shown is the gecko. Not the combination of the two. It eliminates any math and possibility for human error.

Cooling period

Cooling any reptile needs to be monitored carefully. If at any time you notice a dramatic change in your gecko’s behavior, stop the cooling process and return them to their normal heat and feeding schedule.

The cooling process begins by slowly decreasing the amount of feedings that the gecko receives. It will also require some strict monitoring of the geckos enclosures temperatures. You will need to cycle their enclosure temperatures down ten degrees over a period of 3 weeks. During this time, the gecko is to be removed from any feeding schedule. The decrease in temperature will disrupt their digestive system. They will survive off the fat storage in their tail during this time frame.

Once you have brought there day and night temperatures down 10 degrees, they should stay at this temperature for 2 weeks. Then you will need to reverse the process and slowly raise the temperatures over a 3-week period. During this time, feeding should begin again with an increase in fatty foods such as wax worms. This will help the geckos to replace the fat storage in their tails and to put on the added weight for breeding season. A female’s calcium intake should increase if you are planning to breed her. A lot of calcium will be used in the developing of the eggs.

During the cooling period, water should remain in the enclosure as well as a shallow dish of calcium powder.

Breeding

Place a single male within your female colony for a period of 2-3 weeks. During this time, you may see the male chasing the females around and biting them. This is a normal practice for breeding geckos. The male has to show his dominance before he subdues the female for copulation.

When a male copulates with a female, he aligns his body beside hers and bites the neck of the female. This keeps her still while copulation is taking place. He will raise his tail so that the hemipene can extract itself from the vent and enter the female.

Female geckos can harbor sperm for long periods. They will use the sperm as needed and will begin to lay eggs every 4-6 weeks. They normally lay eggs in pairs but it is not uncommon for an older gecko or a first time breeder to lay a single egg. The male can be removed after 2-3 weeks because by this time, he has already bred with each female a few times and the sperm supply should be plentiful.

Egg collecting

Gathering the eggs is extremely important so that they do not dry out. If the eggs dry out, they will begin to dent and the embryo will die. After the male has been removed from the enclosure, check the moist hide daily. This will be the place where the females will deposit their eggs. Though the eggs themselves may not be visible, there should be some sign in the moist hide that eggs are present. Normally the female will cover the eggs in the rear of the container and the medium will be piled up on top of them. In some cases, you may even see the gecko digging in the moist hide preparing to lay her eggs. Do not disrupt her until she has left the moist hide and a visible mound of medium is present.

Egg removal should be done carefully. The way the eggs are deposited is crucial to their survival so they should be marked. Once you have removed enough of the medium to visibly see the eggs, use a sharpie pen and draw a small line on it. This will allow you to know that the line is the top of the egg. If the eggs are placed in the incubator upside down, they can drown.

Incubating

You will either have to purchase or build an incubator to hatch the eggs successfully. I use a hovabator to incubate my eggs. I also use vermiculite as my incubation medium. You can search online for various techniques for creating an incubator or for online stores that sell them.

Incubating tray

You will need to create an incubating tray to place the eggs in. Decide upon which medium you want to use and line a Tupperware container or deli cup with the medium. It should have the same consistency as the medium in the moist hide.

Placing the eggs

Remove the eggs from the moist hide carefully and place them in the container that you have prepared to incubate the eggs in. Be sure that the line you made is facing up. Cover them so that only half of the egg is visible.

Incubation temperatures

Leopard gecko eggs can be incubated for sex if you have a preference as to female or male offspring. Below are the temperatures that the eggs should be incubated at in order for you to attempt to incubate for a specific sex:

78-82 degrees will produce females

83-88 degrees will produce a mixture of both males and females

89-92 degrees will result in males

This method is not fool proof but does carry some degree of accuracy. I have been following these temperatures and have been successful. Eggs will take anywhere from 45-70 days to hatch.

Humidity

It is crucial that the humidity in the incubator remain 80% or higher. If the humidity drops, the eggs may dry out. By leaving a dish of water in the incubator, you will help to increase the humidity. Avoid getting water directly on the eggs. They could mold and die.

Author: Richard Brooks